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Fashion statement, political statement

McQueen's spring 2000 collection comments on Middle Eastern norms

December 10, 1999
Web posted at: 12:27 p.m. EST (1727 GMT)

NEW YORK (CNN) - London designer Alexander McQueen decorates the runway with a pool of water meant to represent oil, fills it with sharp stakes and then sends his models soaring ominously over the pit, wearing his 2000 spring/summer collection. McQueen says he's making a statement against what he sees as the oppression of Islamic women in wealthy oil-producing countries of the Middle East.

The outfits are inspired by the Middle Eastern design, but McQueen says he gives them a strong Western point of view. "There are gripes against fundamentalism in the Middle East -- like covering the women up," he says. "That's why there's so many of these nude bikini-type swimsuits, because I don't believe in repression against women."

One model took to the catwalk dressed with her head and torso covered in silver chain mail and only a bikini for a bottom. Another donned a red, gauzy top with no armholes, and third wore a red sports jersey decorated with the Islamic symbols of a crescent moon and star.

The jackets also have a Middle Eastern flavor. "Just a lot of leather work, a lot of traditional sort of Islamic work," McQueen says. His accessories include mules with turned-up toes and headdresses. McQueen says the they're "very Islamic, very hidden, so like they're masks."

McQueen uses real diamonds to symbolize the wealth of the oil-producing nations. Although the jewels often represent glamour, he says he believes glamour really comes from within.

"It's all about individuality really," McQueen says. "I think it's a personal style coming out. The way she wears her own clothes -- that she's not dictated to by the designer. She takes the essence of the collection and wears it her way."

McQueen was named the Avant Garde Fashion Designer of the Year at the VH1/Vogue Fashion Awards last weekend in New York.

CNN Style Correspondent Elsa Klensch contributed to this report.




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