CNN - arts & style - Blahnik's retro new-century shoes

NEW YORK (CNN) - London's Manolo Blahnik is one of the most sought-after shoe designers in the world -- sought after not only by his well-heeled clientele, but by fashion designers who want his footwear to highlight their outfits on the runway.

Blahnik has set the trend for ultrafeminine, colorful sandals that were an international success. This season, he creates a collection of 125 lavishly embellished shoes. There are two major looks: One pays tribute to the past and another looks toward the future.

The nostalgic designs recall shoes worn by royalty during the early 1900s. Blahnik says he works with a cross between the Austrian Empress Elizabeth (1837-1898) and the Queen of Naples in Bourbon times.

"I am looking back with a touch of (Marcel) Proust," Blahnik says, referring to the French novelist who traveled in the upper echelons of society during the 19th and early 20th centuries.

As for his futuristic look, Blahnik created "walking shoes with tiny heels -- very much what I always do but with a little edge." Part of that "edge" comes from the colors he uses -- colors that clash at times.

In the "Empress of Austria-Queen of Naples" group, everything is dusty or faded, Blahnik says. He uses colors such as "dusty rose, dusty blue, dusty green." In the modern section, he says the colors are more vivid.

Each season, Blahnik creates collections for a dozen designers on both sides of the Atlantic. This fall and winter, he has put his signature stilettos on boots for New York designer Michael Kors. In London, Blahnik made high-heel boots and evening sandals for the husband-wife team of Clements Ribiero.

When it comes to his own collection, Blahnik says he doesn't pay attention to the rules of fashion. "I do what I want to do," Blahnik says. "This is a great luxury, so it was an easy collection."

CNN Style Correspondent Elsa Klensch contributed to this report.

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