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![]() 'Julia and Jacques, Cooking at Home' Knopf, $40
Review by Randy Harber
The battles between Jacques and Julia are not battles at all. The real enemies here are those who fear fat and, in the view of these two chefs, are ruining the taste of many American foods. Grumbling about her attempts to get a good pan fried steak, Julia complains, "I have been forced to an unhappy conclusion: much of what is sold these days is just second-class beef." But no problem, she and Jacques show the reader how to use less popular, cheaper, and better tasting cuts of meat braised as roasts or cooked into stews. For Jacques, food is about sharing and he urges readers to consider an idea expressed by Voltaire. "try to imagine how tiresome eating and drinking would be if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity," he says. "So, share our recipes with friends and family. If you do, I am sure you will enjoy them in a deeper way." This book wasn’t written in the usual way -- with carefully planned recipes done in advance. A topic was picked, ingredients were assembled, and the two chefs then went into Julia’s kitchen and cooked. Writer David Nussbaum has done an admirable job of turning their creations into easily followed recipes. These are accompanied by photos artfully taken Christopher Hirsheimer, an editor and photographer from Saveur magazine.
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