Turning over a new leaf: Cilantro

Cilantro is sometimes referred to as the world's most widely used herb

By Lucy Barajikian
Los Angeles Times Syndicate

(Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- It's a beautiful, feathery herb with slender stems, but when it comes to cooking, cilantro still evokes a vehement reaction. You either love this pungent herb, or you don't.

Those who don't argue that the flat-leaf herb tastes like rusted metal or soap, and smells buggy or like the city dump -- or worse -- and pick it out of their food. Old gardening books used to warn against cilantro's "rank smell." So what chance does this assertive, pungent herb have in the culinary world -- a world that emphasizes flavor and aroma -- because cilantro's wild and musky fragrance is difficult to disguise in a dish.

But, say cilantro fans, who wants to disguise the taste of cilantro? And they relish it in tajines and tacos, chutney and curries, salads and sauces, stews and soups.

Although a fairly recent arrival to America's shores, cilantro has been cultivated by many other cuisines for thousands of years, and is sometimes referred to as the world's most widely used herb.

Among the ones who recognized cilantro's extraordinary appeal and outstanding flavor were the Chinese who have used it for 2,000 years. They call cilantro "fragrant greens," use it in stir-fries and soups and other dishes and have even boiled the whole plant -- leaves, roots and stems -- and served it as a steaming hot, savory vegetable. Obviously, Chinese cooks don't regard this green merely as an afterthought or as a pretty garnish. One Sichuan recipe even calls for a whole plant to be tucked into a duckling before being roasted.

A glimpse into the cuisines of other countries reveals that cilantro is embraced not only in China, but in North African countries, the Mediterranean, India, Portugal, Mexico, Thailand, Morocco, among others, and the United States where it is fast becoming an indispensable herb in the home kitchen.

There was a time when cilantro was only available at Asian or Mexican markets, but it is now as easy to purchase as parsley. This is mostly due to the influx of Asian, Mexican, Middle Eastern and Indian immigrants whose cuisines have made this peerless herb an amiable partner in the kitchen, encouraging markets to feature it along with parsley, fresh basil, dill and other fragrant herbs.

Today, cooks chop up the leaves to perk up soups, stews, dips, meat, fish and egg dishes as well as pastas, salads and marinades. They have found that its complex flavor is successful not only with simple foods like rice, eggs and fish, but also in heavier fare as beans and meats where its distinct flavor lightens the dish.

What can be confusing about cilantro (as the leafy part is known in Spanish) is that it has other names -- Chinese or Mexican parsley or fresh coriander. Even more confusing is that the dried seed of the plant, called coriander, is also an important seasoning agent. But the leafy greens and seeds have entirely different tastes and are not interchangeable in recipes.

Cilantro can be purchased year-round in most markets. Look for a fresh green, lively color. Avoid yellow leaves. If possible, purchase cilantro with roots attached as the roots make a lively addition to curry dishes. Rinse only when ready to use. To store, place the roots in a glass of water, cover the leaves loosely with a plastic food bag and refrigerate. It should last about a week, if you change the water every two or three days. Or you can rinse and spin-dry cilantro, then air-dry it until almost all the moisture evaporates. Wrap in a paper towel before placing it in a plastic food bag and refrigerating it.

There is no substitute for the flavor of fresh cilantro. If you omit it from a recipe, the finished dish will lack the vibrant flavor this herb imparts. Two other cautions: Cilantro should be used in moderation as the flavor is strong, and if used in a dish that is to be cooked, add it toward the end of cooking time to maintain its fresh taste.

• 3 cups plain yogurt
• 2 cups very loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, plus sprigs for garnish
• 1 cup half and half
• 1/2 cup chopped green onions (green part only)
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
• 3 cups chicken broth
• Freshly ground pepper

Blend yogurt, 2 cups cilantro, half and half, onions and parsley in food processor 15 seconds. Transfer to large container. Stir in broth. Refrigerate overnight.

Garnish with cilantro sprigs and season to taste with pepper.

Makes 2 quarts.

Note: For best results, make soup at least 1 day ahead.

(Adapted from Bon Appetit magazine.)

If you make this in a blender, the sauce will be thick and creamy, flecked with green. If you chop everything by hand and stir it into the oil, it will be more like the traditional salsa verde, the herbs suspended in oil. Use this as a dip, in pita sandwiches, with hard-cooked eggs, or spooned over grilled vegetables.

• 1 jalapeno chile, seeded
• 1 large bunch cilantro, stems removed
• 1/2 cup mint leaves
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Juice of 1 lime
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• Salt

For creamy sauce, coarsely chop chile, cilantro, mint and garlic. Puree in food processor with water and olive oil. Add lime juice, cumin, coriander and salt to taste. Taste and adjust seasonings.

To make sauce by hand, very finely chop everything. Stir in 1/4 cup water, oil, lime juice, cumin, coriander and salt.

Makes about 2/3 cup.

(Adapted from "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" by Deborah Madison, Broadway Books.)

This dish may be made up to a day ahead of time and then reheated.

• 3 tablespoons olive or other oil
• 1 dried red chile, optional
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 medium onions, halved lengthwise and then cut into fine half-rings
• 1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, or 7 to 8 canned plum tomatoes, chopped
• 1 1/2 pounds green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt or to taste
• Black pepper
• 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup water

Heat oil in wide pot over medium-high heat. When hot, add chile and stir once. Add garlic and onions. Reduce heat to medium and stir-fry until garlic and onions turn light brown at edges, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add tomatoes, green beans, salt, black pepper to taste, cilantro and water. Bring to simmer. Cover tightly and simmer 20 minutes until beans are tender. Remove lid. Increase heat and cook to reduce liquid to thick sauce, 3 to 4 minutes. Adjust seasonings. Discard chile before serving.

Makes 6 servings.

(Adapted from "Madhur Jaffrey's Cookbook: Easy East/West Menus for Family and Friends," Harper & Row.)

This flavorful marinade comes together so quickly that you will be amazed at what terrific results you can get from a few minutes of work. It wins raves from guests, and you will probably find yourself making it on a weeknight as well.

• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 tablespoon curry powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 2 pounds swordfish steaks, about 1 inch thick

In blender or food processor, combine oil, lime juice, soy sauce, honey, garlic, ginger, cilantro, curry powder, salt and pepper. Grind until fairly smooth. Pour into baking dish just large enough to hold swordfish steaks in one layer.

Add swordfish and turn to coat well with marinade. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours, turning once if marinating for more than 30 minutes.

Prepare grill or broiler. Remove fish from marinade and cook 6 inches from heat source 7 minutes on one side. Turn and brush with remaining marinade. Cook second side 5 to 7 minutes until nicely browned and cooked through. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Note: To prepare in advance, make marinade in morning, cover and refrigerate until close to cooking time. Then combine with fish and marinate and cook as directed.

(Adapted from "The Curry Book" by Nancie McDermott, Houghton Mifflin Co.)