Salsa madness

It's not salsa if it doesn't have chiles.

In this story: Salsa Salsa Verde, Mexican style Cranberry-Orange Salsa Mango Salsa RELATED STORIES, SITES

By Lucy Barajikian
Los Angeles Times Syndicate

(Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- If you look up the word salsa in Webster's Dictionary, you might be in for a surprise, for it's defined as "Salsa: a kind of Latin American dance music of Afro-Cuban and Puerto Rican origin, influenced by jazz and rock." The words conjure up a pleasing image of something vibrant, zesty, with a kick, so maybe it isn't too far off the mark because the second definition is what interests the food person: "Salsa: a hot sauce made with chiles, tomatoes, etc."

But this definition is disappointing -- it's like defining the majestic sequoia as a tree. It doesn't do justice to this vibrant dish, for salsa is not a wispy concoction. It's a dish that tantalizes, that piques the palate with its combination of blistering ingredients and cool and crisp vegetables. It's bold and bursting with flavor and color. Webster's just fails to capture its magic.

But salsa hasn't failed to capture the palates of the American public, for Americans have been having a love affair with it ever since the first hostess replaced the perennial chips and rich and creamy onion dip with chips and a bowl of garden-fresh, zesty tomato salsa.

These days American consumption is setting some kind of record, for salsa sales have been outstripping ketchup sales for more than five years. The Cranberry-Orange Salsa that some people serve with roast turkey has almost eclipsed cranberry sauce on the Thanksgiving Day table. And although salsa has been served on the ranchos in California since the 1800s, salsa is not just a California or Mexican thing. These days it is being served on fine china in tony restaurants from coast to coast.

But what, exactly, is in salsa? For Mexicans, who started it all, salsa has always been an essential staple on the breakfast, lunch and dinner table. The classic recipe is a relish or condiment made of tomatoes, onion, cilantro, chiles and lime juice. There's also a green salsa made with tomatillos, a citrusy Mexican staple with a papery outer husk. A tomatillo looks like a tomato, but isn't. Some salsas are cooked; many are not. Fresh versions are usually best, if eaten within a few hours of making.

Because it has the invigorating quality of waking up taste buds with its chile punch, tomato or tomatillo salsas are delicious served with scrambled eggs, rice, beans, stew, chili, spaghetti, sandwiches, soups, steamed or roasted vegetables, or Mexican dishes such as enchiladas and tacos. In short, they can go over just about anything served on a dinner plate.

What all salsas have in common is that they are virtually fat-free, unlike rich sauces like bearnaise and hollandaise that tend to overpower the taste of meat, fish, poultry and vegetables. Salsas can be quite potent, and boost the flavor of whatever dish they are partnered with. Measurements need not be precise, and best of all, they can be made in minutes.

Ever since the craze began, cooks have been concocting their own renditions, using ingredients with complete abandon, including seasonings such as marjoram, thyme, mustard seeds, cumin, cloves or cinnamon. Lately, innovative cooks have redefined salsa even further. The salsa that started as a dip to serve with corn chips is now a free-for-all dish that sometimes incorporates vegetables other than tomatoes. Some of the new salsas appearing in home kitchens and restaurants are made of carrots, jicama, cilantro, beets, mushrooms and even grilled corn.

Most surprising of all is the wildly popular contemporary food fashion to use diced colorful fruit. The sweetness of a nectarine, pineapple, banana, cantaloupe, strawberry, peach or watermelon is matched with exuberant and hot seasonings and ends up becoming a refreshing partner for meats, fish and poultry, or used as a topping for grilled chicken, barbecued ribs, ham or seafood.

It has reached the point where some people are spreading salsa -- any kind of salsa -- lavishly over slices of fresh baguettes, what one fan lovingly calls "Mexican Jam."

• 1 large fresh tomato, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 medium Bermuda onion or sweet purple Spanish onion, or 2 green onions, tops included, finely chopped
• 4 green chiles, roasted and chopped, or 4 ounces canned chopped green chiles
• 1 large or 2 small garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Combine tomato, onion, chiles and garlic. Stir in salt and marinate at least 15 minutes. (Salsa keeps up to 1 week when refrigerated in tightly sealed food container or can be frozen for later use in cooked sauces for about 4 months.)

Makes about 2 cups.

(Adapted from "Jane Butel's Tex-Mex Cookbook," Harmony Books.)

(Mexican Green Sauce)

Salsa verde is a traditional Mexican sauce. It is good over meats and as a sauce in tortilla concoctions such as tacos, burritos and the like. Tomatillos are generally available in Mexican specialty stores and should always be used; green tomatoes cannot be substituted for they lack the sweet, mild flavor.

• 1/2 medium onion, finely minced
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
• 1 serrano or jalapeno chile, finely minced
• 1/2 teaspoon salt or more
• 10 ounces canned tomatillos, well drained

If possible, use blender or food processor to blend together onion, cilantro, chile, salt and tomatillos. Without machine, use fork or mortar and pestle to mash ingredients. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Makes about 2 cups.

When fresh cranberries are not available, look for them in the freezer case. Process them without waiting for the berries to thaw; they will thaw by the time the salsa is done. Seed the jalapeno chile only if want to reduce the heat of the salsa.

• 2 navel oranges
• 1 small white onion, quartered
• 2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries
• 1 jalapeno chile, minced
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Scrub oranges, rinse well and pat dry. Cut each orange into 8 wedges.

In food processor, coarsely chop oranges and onion by pulsing. Add cranberries and pulse until all ingredients are finely chopped.

Transfer to bowl. Add chile, sugar, cumin, cinnamon and salt. Stir to mix well. Set aside at room temperature about 30 minutes to let flavors blend.

Makes 4 cups.

(Adapted from "50 Best Salsas & Dips" by Jane Kirby, Broadway Books.)

• 1/2 onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• Juice of 1/2 lime
• 1/2 jalapeno chile, seeded and minced
• Salt
• 1/2 bunch cilantro, stemmed
• 3 mangoes, peeled, pitted and chopped
• Dash sugar

In food processor or blender, combine onion, garlic, lemon and lime juices, chile and salt. Pulse to coarsely chop. Add cilantro and mango and pulse to chunky consistency. Stir in sugar to taste. (Can be made 1 day ahead before serving and refrigerated.)

Makes 2 cups.

(Adapted from "San Francisco Flavors, Favorite Recipes From the Junior League of San Francisco," Chronicle Books.)

Spicy Carrot Salsa

This salsa is a delight because it has the wonderful texture of a carrot salad, the kick of a salsa, and the surprise of the ginger and nuts. It's perfect to serve with sandwiches for a lunch. Use two chiles if you prefer a spicier salsa.

• 1 bunch carrots, peeled
• 1 small zucchini
• 1 bunch green onions, minced, using half of green tops
• 1 to 2 jalapeno chiles, seeded and minced
• 1 slice fresh ginger, peeled and minced
• 2 tablespoons sesame seeds
• 1/3 cup unsalted peanuts
• 2 tablespoons light or sunflower oil
• 1/4 cup rice vinegar
• 1 teaspoon sugar, optional

Grate carrots and zucchini using shredding disk of food processor or grate on hand grater. Mix with onions, chiles, ginger, sesame seeds and peanuts. Mix together oil and vinegar using sugar if you think carrots could be sweeter. Pour over vegetables.

Makes 6 servings as side dish or light lunch.

(Adapted from "The Salsa Book" by Jacqueline Higuera McMahan, Olive Press.)