'It's all in the vegetables'

By Betty Rosbottom
Los Angeles Times Syndicate

(Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- When my cooking students ask me how I determine whether a restaurant is good or not, I often reply, "It's all in the vegetables." I explain that if a chef pays attention to these side dishes, you can be certain the rest of the menu will also be carefully prepared. The same adage applies to home chefs. Show me the cook who presents beautifully cooked vegetables, and I know the other dishes will be just as tempting.

Recently we ate in a local restaurant where I ordered maple syrup and mustard-glazed roast chicken with baby carrots. My first bite of carrots was disappointing. The carrots, so undercooked they tasted crunchy, were also flavorless. Five more minutes in the saute pan would have made them tender, and a pinch of sugar and some extra butter would have given them a big flavor boost. My theory held true. The rest of the meal was lackluster -- the chicken had soggy skin and the maple syrup sauce was overly sweet without any trace of the mustard in the dish's title.

On the other hand, let me tell you about a friend of mine who is an excellent cook. I see her frequently at our Saturday farmers market where she can't wait to share with me who has the best potatoes or which stand has the tiny green beans, haricots verts. When we have dined at her house, the food has been outstanding.

In the fall a new crop of vegetables appears on our market shelves. Squashes in all colors and shapes, huge cabbages with attractive outer leaves, tightly coiled Brussels sprouts, and fresh rutabagas and sweet potatoes take center stage. These vegetables are a welcome change and a culinary gold mine for the creative cook.

Last week I bought some sleek, dark green acorn squash and decided to halve and roast them. For a filling, I sauteed diced pears, dried cranberries and chopped pecans and added brown sugar and a splash of balsamic vinegar for a nice balance of sweet and sour notes. Fresh ginger provided piquancy. The results were delicious; the sweet, soft texture of the squash paired perfectly with the crunchy stuffing.

Because they can be roasted and filled ahead of time, these squash are ideal to serve when entertaining. They would be a fine accompaniment to roast chicken or duck, or you could use them as a garnish to a baked ham or pork loin. I bet that if you take the time to make this colorful autumn vegetable dish the rest of your meal will be special, too.

Acorn Squash Stuffed with Pears, Cranberries and Pecans

Makes 8 servings.

• 4 acorn squash (about 1 1/4 pounds each)
• 1 cup dried cranberries
• 2 pears, ripe yet firm to the touch (Bartletts work well)
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 4 teaspoons finely chopped peeled ginger
• 1 cup coarsely chopped pecans
• 4 teaspoons light brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

Cut thin slices from both ends of squash and discard slices. Halve squash (through middle, not stem ends) and scrape out and discard seeds and strings.

Place halves, cut sides down, in very large roasting pan (or use 2 large roasting pans), and fill pan or pans with 1/4 inch water.

Bake at 325 degrees on center rack until flesh is very tender when pierced with sharp knife, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove pan from oven and set aside.

Place cranberries in small bowl and cover with boiling water to soften 5 minutes. Drain well and pat dry.

Peel pears, quarter and remove cores. Cut into 1/2-inch dice.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in large heavy skillet over medium heat. When hot, add pears and saute, stirring, until pears are just softened and slightly golden, 3 minutes or slightly longer.

Pears should be tender but not mushy. Do not overcook. Stir in drained cranberries, ginger, pecans and brown sugar and cook, stirring, 1 minute more.

Sprinkle mixture with balsamic vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook and stir 1 minute more. Remove from heat.

Remove squash halves from pan. Pour out water and pat pan dry. Return squash, cut sides up, to pan.

Salt cavity of each well and dot with 1/4 tablespoon remaining butter. Divide filling evenly among halves. (Squash can be prepared 2 hours ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and leave at cool room temperature.)

To finish, return squash to oven and bake, uncovered, until heated through, 10 to 15 minutes or longer. Serve warm.