Cooking with Coffee

By John Ash
Los Angeles Times Syndicate

(Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- We usually think of coffee mostly as a beverage and then maybe as a flavoring for ice cream or candies. Coffee, however, has a rich culinary history and has been used in a variety of ways. Authorities seem to agree that it was first consumed in West Africa and the Middle East. There it was first eaten whole -- berry, bean and all -- usually with some kind of fat or in combination with dried fruits and beans. The fermented pulp of the berry was also used to make a kind of wine.

The practice of roasting the beans to develop their aromatic flavors probably started in the 13th century. As Alan Davidson indicates in "The Oxford Companion To Food," in Yemen by the end of the 13th century the beverage had acquired its familiar name, Qahwah, which was originally a poetic name for wine. Coffee has many similarities to wine. The language to describe its flavors is similar and, like wine, coffee varies tremendously in flavor and intensity as a result of the place that it is grown.

No doubt the original appeal of coffee was the stimulating boost it offered as a result of the caffeine it contained. At one time or another it was called "The Devil's Brew" and condemned by clerics. Many decried coffee as a potent aphrodisiac. The Vatican, among others, called coffee "Satan's latest trap to catch Christian souls."

Pope Clement VIII, however, intervened and, according to legend, demanded to taste coffee and make up his own mind. He liked it so much that he decreed that this was something that Christianity should make its own. This probably is the reason why Italy became the place where coffee culture first blossomed in Europe (although some French dispute this).

Coffee has become such a fixture in American culture that it is only natural that we would begin to explore other uses for this deliciously complex product. My first recollection of tasting coffee as something other than as a beverage was a recipe my grandmother used to make. Being of sturdy Scotch/Irish/German descent, she was genetically programmed to never waste anything. She used to take the coffee that had been on the heat too long (you know, that stuff that becomes so strong that the acids and bitterness could remove the enamel from your teeth) and turn it into a wonderful poaching liquid for fruits.

If you think about it, the tradition of poaching fruits in wine has been with us for a long time. Coffee has many of the same characteristics of wine: rich flavor, good acidity, tannins and others that are a nice foil for sweet fruits.

I've included my variation on her recipe below using pears. The poaching liquid is equally wonderful with other fruits such as apples or bananas. The liquid can be used repeatedly, and after a while thickens to become the most delicious fruit-infused syrup that is delicious on pancakes, waffles and ice creams.

The other recipe illustrates how coffee can be used in a savory way, as another element in our spice cabinet. Here I've made a dry rub to flavor quail. You could use the same approach, of course, with chicken breasts or thighs, and I love it with pork tenderloin. The use of the vanilla-scented sauce, another ingredient that we usually don't think about in savory dishes, adds a very exotic and delicious note to the dish. Hopefully these recipes will help open you up to the idea of coffee as more than just a beverage.

Makes 8 servings.

This dish can be made a day or two ahead, if desired. I like it served both warm or chilled.

• 6 cups strong coffee
• 2 1/2 cups packed dark brown sugar
• Grated zest and juice of 2 large oranges
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
• 1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
• 8 medium firm, ripe pears, peeled and cored
• 3/4 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/4 cup fresh orange juice

Garnish: Fresh orange segments, mint sprigs and whipped cream or ice cream, optional

In large, wide non-reactive saucepan, combine coffee, brown sugar, orange zest and juice, ginger and cinnamon stick. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer 4 minutes.

Add pears and return to simmer and gently cook until pears are cooked through and tender, testing pears with wood pick. Cooking time will vary greatly depending on type and size of pear used.

When tender, remove from heat. Strain 1 cup poaching liquid into small saucepan. Leave pears in their liquid while making sauce.

Dissolve cornstarch in orange juice. Add to small saucepan containing 1 cup poaching liquid. Bring to simmer and cook until lightly thickened, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Serve pears sliced and fanned in shallow bowls or on plates. Spoon some sauce over and around slices. Garnish with 2 or 3 orange segments, mint sprig and dollop of whipped cream.

Makes 6 servings.

• 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds
• 12 black peppercorns
• 20 coriander seeds
• 3 whole cloves
• 2 juniper berries
• 1/2-inch-piece cinnamon stick
• 1 small bay leaf
• 3 tablespoons freshly ground espresso coffee (ground very fine)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 12 quail
• 5 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 bunches spinach, well rinsed and stems removed
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Salt, freshly ground pepper
• Vanilla Sauce (recipe follows)
• Garnish: Parsnips or sweet potatoes, very thinly sliced lengthwise, and deep fried, if desired

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

On baking sheet arrange, in separate piles, sesame seeds, peppercorns, coriander, cloves, juniper berries and cinnamon and toast in oven at 350 degrees until sesame seeds are golden colored, about 10 minutes.

Remove from oven. With electric coffee grinder, finely grind toasted spices along with bay leaf.

Add coffee, salt and sugar and continue grinding until mixture is finely ground.

Lightly rub quails with 2 tablespoons olive oil and then rub with spice mixture. Refrigerate 2 to 3 hours.

In heavy ovenproof saute pan large enough to hold all quail in single layer, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil and brown quail on all sides over moderate heat, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn all quail, breast side up.

To finish cooking, bake at 450 degrees 5 to 7 minutes. Test by inserting point of knife at thigh joint. Juices should run clear but meat should still be slightly pink and juicy.

To serve, quickly saute spinach in butter until just wilted. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange in middle of warm plates. Top each with 2 quail and spoon Vanilla Sauce around. Garnish with fried parsnips. Serve immediately.

Vanilla Sauce

Makes enough sauce for 6 servings.

• 3 tablespoons chopped shallot
• 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 cups flavorful quail or chicken stock
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 2/3 cup whipping cream
• 1 (3-inch) vanilla bean, split
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• Salt, freshly ground white pepper

Saute shallot and mushrooms in 1 tablespoon butter until soft, but not brown, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add stock and wine and reduce by half over high heat, 8 to 10 minutes. Add cream and vanilla bean and reduce again to light sauce consistency, about 5 minutes.

Strain through fine mesh strainer, pressing down on solids. Scrape soft center of vanilla bean into strained sauce and discard bean.

Adjust seasonings to taste with drops of lemon juice, salt and pepper. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter in bits.

Keep sauce in warm water bath or thermos until serving time, up to 3 hours.