Cook it quick: Dish up a fish

By Faye Levy
Los Angeles Times Syndicate

(Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- A full meal in a single dish is a standard that has withstood the tests of time and place. Whether you call it a casserole, a one-pot entree or a meal-in-a-bowl, it is part of our culinary heritage that still has great appeal for many occasions. Every cuisine seems to feature these complete entrees in one form or another.

Many of us picture these dishes as meaty, like American chili or French cassoulet, both of which combine meats with beans, with totally different results. Pasta fits the casserole image just as readily. Think of how much we enjoy lasagna or macaroni and cheese.

Fish comes to mind less often but is equally suitable for one-pot meals. And because fish cooks fast, you can create a whole-meal fish entree quickly, making it an ideal choice when time is short.

For inspiration for such fish specialties I often look to the southern Mediterranean cuisine. I find that cooks from the Maghreb region, comprising Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, are masters of the all-in-one fish dish. By judicious use of herb pastes, spices and vegetables they skillfully turn fish into scrumptious casseroles.

I also love their relaxed attitude towards preparing seafood. Although attentive to the details of flavor, they don't get nervous if their fish casserole happens to cook for a few extra minutes. When necessary, they prepare these fish dishes ahead and either reheat them or serve them cold.

Layering is one of the favorite ways to put together a meal-in-a-pot in this sun-drenched region. After smearing the fish pieces with the seasoning paste, cooks might alternate them with sliced tomatoes, peppers and other fast-cooking vegetables like zucchini. For a heartier fish entree, some add cooked dried beans, but most prefer potatoes. Traditional North African cooks produce their seasoning pastes with a mortar and pestle, but you don't need to imitate this technique when you're busy. For speedy preparation, use a food processor.

Frugal, fish-loving Mediterranean cooks also know that these practical one-dish meals help stretch their budgets. If you combine the seafood with potatoes or beans, you get a fairly economical entree. You obtain more servings of the fish so that even a smaller portion will not look puny on the plate.

The concept of pairing modest foods with more luxurious ones has caught on in fancy restaurants as well. Often we see fish and potato casseroles with such fanciful names as fish millefeuille or fish lasagna. The reason is simple: Chefs are inspired by home cooking, too, because the tried-and-true combinations are what their customers enjoy.

These delicious casseroles are perfect for weekend dinners with friends or for everyday family suppers. With so many health benefits associated with the fruits of the sea, planning a fish dinner at least once a week is a wholesome Mediterranean custom that's worth adopting.

Moroccan Spiced Fish with Peppers and Potatoes

Makes 4 servings.

Try this aromatic North African spice paste of garlic, cilantro, cumin and hot red pepper to give gusto to your fish entrees. Just spread it on the fish and bake it with sweet peppers, tomatoes and other vegetables of your choice. The paste is easiest to make in a small food processor.

You can get this one-pot dish on the table fastest if you have cooked potatoes on hand. When you're steaming or boiling potatoes, it's a good idea to cook extra ones for use in salads or quick side dishes. If you haven't cooked potatoes ahead, to save time you can microwave them. See the Note following the recipe on how to cook potatoes in a pot or in the microwave.

If you're really short on time or you prefer other vegetables, instead of potatoes add 1 1/2 to 2 cups frozen green beans, corn or mixed vegetables. Simply thaw them or microwave them for 2 minutes.

• 8 large garlic cloves
• 1/4 cup cilantro sprigs, plus 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
• 3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 pound boiling potatoes, cooked and sliced about 1/2 inch thick (see Note)
• Salt, freshly ground pepper
• 2 red, green or yellow bell peppers, cut into thin strips
• 1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 2 pounds fish steaks or fillets, such as halibut, cod or sea bass, 1 inch thick, rinsed and patted dry
• 1/2 onion, cut into thin slices

In food processor, process garlic, cilantro sprigs, cumin and crushed pepper until chopped. Add 1 tablespoon oil and process until blended to a paste.

Oil shallow 2-quart casserole. Add potatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Top with bell pepper strips. Top peppers with half of tomato slices in one layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.

Top with fish in one layer. Spread spice paste evenly over fish. Top fish with onions, then with remaining tomatoes. Pour remaining oil evenly over top.

Cover and bake at 375 degrees until fish can just be flaked with fork but is not falling apart, 25 minutes.

Sprinkle with chopped cilantro. Serve from casserole.

Note: To cook potatoes fast, choose small potatoes, either white- or red-skinned or Yukon Gold potatoes.

Scrub 1 pound potatoes, peel if desired. If using medium or large ones, halve or quarter them.

To cook potatoes on stove top, place prepared potatoes in saucepan, cover with water by about 1/2 inch and add salt to taste. Bring to boil. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat until knife can pierce center of largest piece easily, about 20 minutes.

To microwave potatoes, place prepared potatoes in microwave container just large enough to hold them in one layer. Add 3 tablespoons water. Cover and microwave on High until tender, 7 minutes.