Wild salmon send cousins back to the farm

Lifestyle distinguishes the differences between farmed and wild salmon, as indicated by a recent taste test

June 22, 2000
Web posted at: 11:59 a.m. EDT (1559 GMT)

By Environmental News Network staff

In a sea of opinions on the integrity of farmed salmon, one indisputable measure is taste.

Research already shows that wild salmon is healthier and environmentally friendlier than farmed salmon. Now comes evidence from fisheries experts, government officials and journalists that wild salmon tastes better than its cousin on the farm.

At a recent blind taste test conducted by conservation groups, diners evaluated the flavor, texture, mouth feel and color of wild salmon and farmed salmon, which were prepared the same way. Out of a possible 640 points, wild salmon received 487; farmed salmon scored 338.

"Just as we enjoy the seasonal bounty of the earth, we need to look at salmon as a seasonal food from our waters," said Nora Pouillon, owner of Restaurant Nora where the salmon tasting took place. "This blind tasting was important to show the consumer the differences in flavor brought about by the environment in which the fish are raised one manipulated by man versus the superior flavor of the wild salmon, which has been allowed to mature through its natural lifecycle."

The luncheon at Restaurant Nora coincided with SeaWeb's release of a national poll, which indicates most Americans are unaware of the environmental and health concerns surrounding fish farms.

"We wanted to get people to question where their salmon is coming from," said Lisa Dropkin, research director for SeaWeb.

The majority of those surveyed indicated they have no idea where the salmon they eat comes from. Most believe farmed salmon is healthier and better for the environment.

Tasters at Restaurant Nora said the wild salmon was "full of flavor." Several added that there was "no comparison" with farmed salmon.

"I always prefer the wild flavor. It is a little more intense," said Harry Yoshimura, owner of Mutual Fish, a well-known retail and wholesale seafood distributor in Seattle. "Most restaurants, if given a choice, will always take wild salmon over farmed salmon."

About half of the salmon eaten by Americans is farmed. "Chances are the salmon on American's grills this summer never swam in the open sea," Environmental Defense notes in the introduction to a recent report on salmon aquaculture.

From 1990 to 1991 alone, farmed salmon production increased by 4,600 percent.

Conservationists cite a litany of environmental concerns involving farmed salmon, from water pollution to bycatch of marine birds and mammals to disease to algal blooms.

According to SeaWeb, 32,000 tons of farmed salmon may produce the same volume of sewage as that generated by a city of 50,000 people.

Farmed salmon live in enclosed pens and for those captured and consumed, they most likely never swam in the open sea

Farm salmon regularly escape from coastal pens and often breed with wild salmon. In Norway, as many as 1.3 million salmon wander from farms each year.

Recently, a genetically engineered "supersalmon" has put salmon at the center of the biotechnology debate. Supporters of the technology say the "supersalmon," which can grow at five times the average rate, could help feed a growing world population. Opponents fear the genetically engineered variety will mix with wild salmon if they escape from their pens.

"If you mess up the gene pool, you can make wild salmon populations less able to survive and reproduce in the future," warns Environmental Defense biologist Rebecca Goldberg.

While salmon farming has skyrocketed, many species of wild salmon have been federally listed as threatened or endangered. "The current regulation of salmon aquaculture is inadequate to protect wild stocks of salmon," said Tom Grasso, director of marine conservation policy for the World Wildlife Fund.

Fish farming is often promoted as a way to relieve pressure on overexploited wild fisheries. But conservationists claim the practice may result in a net loss of fish and protein.

Several recommendations have been forwarded to clean up salmon aquaculture. Many environmental groups want state and federal government agencies to enforce better water quality standards. They are also campaigning for improved standards that would prevent the introduction and spread of fish diseases from farms to wild fish populations.

Copyright 2000, Environmental News Network, All Rights Reserved

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SeaWeb
Environmental Defense
guide to selecting salmon
list of sustainable seafood

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