Fall fragrances are fresh, less unisex

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(Fashion Wire Daily) -- Sex and power defined the mood of the '80s. In the '90s, designers moved toward minimalism in response to the excesses of the previous decade. Now, ladylike luxury returns to the runways and the fragrances that have been formulated for fall 2000.

"From a woman's point of view, this fall we're definitely moving toward a more feminine feeling and away from unisex in terms of fashion as well as fragrance," says Annette Green, president of the New York-based Fragrance Foundation.

"In a way we're retrogressing to the '80s because the fragrances this fall are very voluptuous," Green says. But unlike the overwhelming fragrances that defined the 'Dynasty' years -- and enveloped their wearer in a cloud of perfume -- these new scents "have a cleaner, fresher cast to them that's more modern."

In fact, just like the new power suits that don't have the sharp lines or overly padded shoulders of their '80s counterparts, the edges of this fall's fragrances have also been softened and streamlined.

"Designers are using exotic, original ingredients," Green says. "But because 'femininity' equates to a certain conservatism, they're not dull, but they're not overly flamboyant."

According to Green, Michael, the first fragrance from designer Michael Kors, exemplifies the current trend in scents.

Combining rich florals like freesia, tuberose and white peony along with smokier notes of Moroccan incense, musk and vetiver bourbon, "it's lush, sophisticated" says Green. "But ladylike."

Similarly, Blu from Bulgari layers spicy, sharp and sweet notes with an unusual blend of botanicals such as ginger, flax flower, vanilla, acacia and wisteria. And Armani's Mania, the warm amber incense fragrance mixes bergamot, musk and vanilla for a sensual scent that's not heavy or cloying.

With the current preoccupation with ladylike looks, it's not surprising that "designers have reflected the idea of femininity in the bottles and packages as well as in the fragrances," Green says.

Anna Sui's new Sui Dreams, for instance, a fresh fruity floral with notes of nectarine, peach, and Cairo freesia, is bottled in a glass handbag topped with a rose-strewn metal handle, reflecting the designer's philosophy that fragrance is an essential accessory for the season -- and a means to express one's personality as you would through your choice of shoes.

In fact, the role that scent plays in a woman's life has evolved along with the fragrances themselves.

"Fragrance is not as decorative as it used to be. It's not about making a statement," explains Green. "Instead, fragrance is 'for me,' personal," she says. "A woman chooses a fragrance that makes her feel more energized, sexier, or calmer." Shiseido's latest scent, Zen (which launches in October), is specifically formulated to increase focus as well as improve feelings of well-being and peace of mind.

With Modified Valerian and Ryokuyu Kyara wood, the fragrance is scientifically proven to measurably raise alpha waves in the brain -- which indicate a state of calm -- and lower levels of cortisol, a hormone produced in response to stress, explains Gretchen Speedy, Shiseido's East Coast national training director.

"Women used to pick a fashion fragrance -- and a very strong part of wearing a fashion scent is letting people know you're wearing them," says Speedy. "But today it's about satisfying yourself -- using fragrance to enhance or transmit a specific feeling or emotion for your own well-being."

Green agrees: "It's not about wearing a fragrance for someone else," she says.

"If a woman allows a person to get next to her and come inside her scent circle" -- which is by definition an arm's length from the body -- "then she will share the fragrance. But otherwise, no one should be aware of it," Green explains. "Except for you."

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The Fragrance Foundation
Shiseido
Anna Sui
Armani

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