Florida's Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary

The red swamp hibiscus blooms in spring and summer

A great egret balances on the water lettuce

An American alligator munches on a fish

This air plant is a relative of the pineapple

A wooden boardwalk allows visitors to explore the swamp

When blue herons are about a year old, their white plumage turns blue

Lubber grasshoppers emit a foul smell to deter predators

Where the wild things lurk

May 12, 2000
Web posted at: 1:31 p.m. EDT (1731 GMT)

By Sherry Rauh
Special Correspondent

NAPLES, Florida (CNN) -- Far from the clamor of Walt Disney World and the glare of crowded beaches, there's a Florida unseen in most travel brochures -- a quiet, steamy swamp that's a haven for furtive alligators and beautiful birds.

Located on the northwestern edge of the Everglades, the Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary offers nearly 11,000 acres of woodland and marsh that is home to a wide array of wildlife. The park, about 21 miles east of Naples, has been under the management of the National Audubon Society since 1954, but the relationship goes back further than that.

The Audubon organization says it began protecting the swamp's wading birds in 1912, but soon realized the bald cypress trees that keep the swamp shaded needed protection, too. Through donations and purchases, the society eventually acquired its current acreage, a tract that includes the largest remaining stand of ancient bald cypress in North America.

Today a wooden boardwalk meanders right through the swamp, offering an up-close look at its abundant wildlife. During the two-mile walk, you can ogle lipstick-colored swamp hibiscus, gawk at American alligators and listen to the songs of limpkins, bitterns and other rarely seen birds.

The trail begins in an open area called the pine flatwoods, providing a glimpse of what much of Florida looked like before development. Slash pines stand tall amid the low-growing saw palmettos, and keen eyes may spot red-shouldered hawks resting in their boughs.

Next, the trail enters the wet prairie, a marsh-like area full of cordgrass. Watch for raccoons sleeping next to the boardwalk and white-tailed deer feeding in the prairie. If you visit in early spring, you'll also be treated to a show of native blue flag iris.

You know you've entered the swamp proper when cypress trees, 500 years old and towering 130 into the air, dominate your surroundings. This section of Corkscrew is festooned with Spanish moss, colorful air plants, swamp lilies and at least 30 different types of ferns. You'll hear the calls of many creatures that elude your eye, though you may be lucky enough to glimpse red-bellied woodpeckers, owls or even vultures.

An area called the "lettuce lakes" marks the climax of the walk. Here, you'll see Florida redbelly turtles basking on logs, and alligators gliding through the muddy water to catch fish. If you can take your eyes off the dark creatures below, you'll find the spot also is a bird watchers' delight. Great egrets and blue herons hunt for fish right alongside the alligators. Bold and unflapped, they stand coolly on the water lettuce, unperturbed by the reptiles all around them.

The graceful white egrets are easy to single out, especially during winter when they display their impressive breeding plumes. The blue herons also stand out -- though they're not always blue. Blue herons are born white and change, feather by feather, beginning when they are about a year old. During the transition, they sport a checkerboard of blue and white -- avian adolescents.

In addition to birds and reptiles, the swamp is home to elusive river otters and a host of colorful insects. It's hard to miss the giant striped butterflies and bright-orange grasshoppers that repeatedly cross your path. The Southeastern lubber grasshopper is several inches long and produces a bad-smelling odor that deters predators.

Getting an intimate look at life in the swamp does come with a price. The walk is hot and sticky, and you should have a water bottle. Your best bet may be to go in winter, when temperatures are milder. The dry season, December through May, is the best time to see the alligators, too.

Still, there are good reasons to visit in warmer months. In spring and summer, redbelly turtles take advantage of alligators protecting their eggs -- the female turtles slyly lay their own eggs in the alligators' nests.

In summer and fall, you can watch whole families of cardinals feeding near the visitor center. Summer also brings a sea of swamp lilies, which attract white-tailed deer.

Whatever time of year you go, be prepared to spend a couple of hours immersed in the swamp. You'll find it's a wild, muddy oasis in a desert of suburbs, strip malls and theme parks.

If you go: