Hanoi, rooted in past, readies for future

Hanoi is attracting more international tourists as it becomes an increasingly cosmopolitan city

In this story: Making progress Darker side of history RELATED STORIES, SITES

From Carolyn O’Neil

HANOI, Vietnam (CNN) -- With its elegant boulevards and buildings designed by the French, lively cafes, bakeries, and even designer boutiques, Hanoi, at times, may remind visitors of Paris.

“It has wonderful French foundations and it has the faded grandeur, but there are a lot of new things,” one visitor says. “There is a lot of excitement there.”

These days, Hanoi is where Vietnam’s old world grace meets new world vitality.

In the old quarter of the nation’s capital, commerce still hums as it has for centuries, with one street featuring shoe vendors only and another specializing in suitcases or silk.

GALLERY Images of modern Hanoi     IN-DEPTH Echoes of War     ON AIR Tune in to CNN Travel Now on Saturday, November 18 for a tour of Hanoi and more     ALSO Vietnam tourists explore nation's war-torn past

Bargains on these streets come as a pleasant surprise, as do the many Internet cafes. Need to check your e-mail? Have something to drink and log on.

Hanoi, a city of 2.5 million people, is still linked to the past, but clearly is wired to the present and is building toward its future.

“Twenty-five years ago, when I first came here, nobody could speak English and there were very few restaurants, no hotels,” said guide Tran Dinh Song. “But now people are driving cars or mopeds, now there are restaurants, hotels, and that’s a change for the better.”

Reflections of Vietnam’s history intrigue visitors, too.

In Hanoi, communism's role in the nation is described in the government-run Ho Chi Minh Museum. The museum, named after the revered communist leader -- countrymen commonly refer to the late president of North Vietnam as "Uncle Ho" -- lived and worked here in this modest, two-room house.

“He was a very simple man,” a guide explains.

Nearby, you can even see his embalmed body on view. Goose-stepping soldiers guard his tomb constantly.

Visitors see a darker side of Vietnam’s history at Hoa Lo Prison, where Vietnamese were held by the French during their occupation. Later, American prisoners were held there during the Vietnam War, including United States Sen. John McCain and Pete Peterson, the U.S. ambassador to Vietnam. They and others gave it a different name: the Hanoi Hilton.

The embalmed body of communist leader Ho Chi Minh is on view in his tomb

“There is a lot of history here,” Peterson said, “and it spans some difficult times, but it is worthwhile to study and reflect as you look towards the future.”

Now you can stay in the Hanoi Hilton -- not the infamous prison, but the real thing. It's built next to the Hanoi Opera House, copying the French architectural design, and is officially called the Hilton Hanoi Opera.

The Hilton joins a growing list of world-class hotels here, including the sleek and modern Hotel Nikko and the historic Metropole Hotel, built by the French in the early 1900s.

“I really ended up liking Hanoi,” said one satisfied tourist, “and I thought it was a really cosmopolitan city.”

CNN In-Depth Specials
Vietnam at 25
Vietnam tourists explore nation's war-torn past
November 10, 2000
Clinton plans postelection visit to Vietnam
September 14, 2000
Cruising Vietnam's coast
May 5, 2000
Light and aromatic: Take a trip into Vietnamese cuisine
April 28, 2000
'Hanoi Hilton' now holds only painful memories
April 27, 2000
An Intriguing Mix of Past and Present
April 24, 2000
Detour to Da Nang

Vietnam Tourism
U.S. Consular Information Sheet - Vietnam
CDC Travelers Health: Southeast Asia
Hilton Hanoi Opera

Note: Pages will open in a new browser window

External sites are not endorsed by CNN Interactive.