Portugal's new roads make driving a smoother ride

Alternative transportation in Lisbon includes authentic elevadors (cable cars), an intriguing way to brave the city's hilly terrain

GALLERY Gallery: On the road in northern Portugal

By Jenna Milly
CNN Interactive Associate Editor

February 7, 2000
Web posted at: 10:38 a.m. EST (1538 GMT)

LISBON, Portugal (CNN) -- Portugal, a country notorious for its bad roads and worse drivers, is working hard to change its image, although it may take awhile.

As recently as 1997, the last year for which complete figures are available, Portugal's roads were among the deadliest in the European Union, according to Eurostat, the EU's statistics office.

People died on Portugal's roads in 1997 at a rate of 253 per million, more than twice the rate for the 15-member EU and 96 points higher than that of the United States. Portugal's 9 million population, of course, is only a fraction of each.

When I applied to rent a car during a recent trip to Lisbon, the agent looked at me quizzically and asked, "Do you know about Portuguese drivers?" I answered, "No," but had the feeling I would soon find out.

His litany of cautions about driving in a country with a reputation for having the worst drivers in Europe also included warnings about unbelievably poor roads. He talked of numerous potholes, incorrectly labeled or missing street signs and small, bumpy roads that sometimes end without warning.

Lonely Planet's Portugal 1999 travel book points out that "city driving tends to be nightmarish ... roads can taper down to donkey-cart size before you know it, ... and fiendish one-way systems can trap you and force you far out of your way."

Despite the car rental agent's cautions and the travel book's warnings, I was determined to brave Portugal's infamous roads.

A toll both awaits en route from the northern port city of Aveiro to Lisbon

New roads challenge old reputation

I hopped into my rental car in Lisbon, tightened the seat belt securely, gripped the steering wheel with white knuckles and pulled gently out into moving city traffic. I started my weeklong journey of touring northern Portugal by heading east on highway IC19 to Sintra, a popular tourist destination.

Traveling the highway and back roads from city to city, I only occasionally experienced the terrors I had been warned about. Often I passed busy road workers, new toll booths, shiny highway signs. At times, I could even smell the tar of freshly paved roads.

Lonely Planet travel writers John King and Julia Wilkinson have been visiting and renting cars in Portugal since 1991. They are co-authors of several Lonely Planet's Portugal travel guides, including the 1999 edition.

Nine years ago, King says, "There were many roads even in Lisbon which were cobbled and often potholed, making a very bumpy and potentially dangerous ride."

Renting a car can spark adventure for almost any traveler -- if a winding road leads to a lookout like this. Cabo da Roca (Cape of the Rock) is continental Europe's westernmost point

Today, King says he "definitely noticed the improvements ... fewer potholes, fewer cobbled streets, more highways, more bridges. It makes traveling easier of course, and quicker."

Faster, smoother, not cheaper

Portugal has been spending billions of dollars over the past several years to modernize its transportation infrastructure, according to government officials.

Projects include a new airport, high-speed rail and 570 miles (912 kilometers) of new roads. Improved routes to Setubal, Lisbon, Porto and Braga are complete. From 1985 to 1995, the country's road mileage increased by almost one-third.

Elia Rodrigues, Portugal's trade representative to the United States, says, "Ten years ago it took much longer" to drive from Lisbon to Porto, Portugal's second largest city. The distance between the two cities is 197 miles (315 kilometers).

Commuters "had all the disadvantages of driving through cities and villages. With the new highways, we gain at least two hours," Rodrigues says.

Although the trip is faster, it is not necessarily less expensive. Some new highways require tolls. The Lisbon-Porto trip costs about US $14.88 (2,950 Escudos) for a standard five-seat car.

Obidos, the medieval walled city north of Lisbon, is popular among tourists for its local artists, excellent cuisine and infinite charm

Economic resurgence

Improved transportation is just a part of Portugal's economic resurgence.

When Lisbon played host to the 1998 Expo, the last World's Fair of the century, it gained the world's largest aquarium, a new stadium and aerial cable cars.

The 8-mile (13-kilometer) Vasco da Gama Bridge, which opened in March 1998, launched more efficient trade between the city and the south bank of the Tagus River.

According to the World Tourism Organization, Portugal was expected to receive more visitors in 1999 than it had in the previous 25 years. The agency ranks the country 15th among the top 40 world destinations.

Proud in historical treasures and spirited in economic growth, this new popular destination offers tourists a generous mix of old and new, says Rodrigues.

"Portugal is a country with great capability for accepting changes and new ideas," she says.

Weather: Lisbon
World Guides and Maps: Portugal
Driving Directions
Currency Converter

Portugal.org
The Lisbon Pages
Lonely Planet -- Portugal
Lisbon Hotel Discounts and City Guide
Virtual Portugal
Eurostat -- statistical office for the European communities
World Tourism Organization US Consular Information Sheet: Portugal CDC Travelers' Health: Western Europe

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