Ski adventures for everybody

Panoramic lake vistas make Lake Tahoe skiing a unique and dazzling experience

By Anne Z. Cooke
Los Angeles Times Syndicate

LAKE TAHOE, California (Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- "Steve," a bass voice behind us boomed, the "v" pronounced like an "f," the accent reminiscent of the Terminator. "Keep those haaands up, Stefe."

In the same instant, an electric-yellow shape flashed past and Franz Weber, former Olympian and six-time world speed-ski champion, shot downhill in a spray of powder, a group of student skiers zig-zagging behind.

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That Weber, director of skiing at the Resort at Squaw Creek in Lake Tahoe, recognized us from behind after a single lesson the day before was amazing. That he remembered us by name was astonishing, a tribute to Weber's uncanny ability to connect with people and his indefatigable enthusiasm for almost anything to do with downhill skiing: teaching it, talking about it, sharing it.

But the real surprise was that this writer -- and anyone staying at the Resort at Squaw Creek, a four-season lodge in the Sierra Nevada mountains near Squaw Valley Ski Area in California -- can ski free with Weber at half-day "Ski With Franz" clinics held at the resort on some Saturdays during ski season.

With competitive racing behind him, Weber, 43, president of a sports management company in Reno, Nevada, now spends most of his time planning and leading corporate ski events here and in Europe. When he pauses at the top of a Squaw Valley chairlift to talk to the air, it's his secretary on the cell phone, confirming upcoming race dates or relaying messages from friends and clients like Arnold Schwarzenegger and Olympic gold medalist Franz Klammer.

Franz Weber, speed skier and former Olympian, delivers a pep talk to some of his students

But when Weber slips on his sunglasses, clicks into his ski bindings and says, "Let's go," get ready to feel like Tommy Moe. After a few hours with Franz, you'll be carving better turns, taking more chances and begging for more.

Ski clinics like Weber's are a relatively new phenomenon at the nation's ski schools. The dot-com generation, fresh off their treadmills and feeling flush, want to ski well and they want to do it now. Inspired by the boom in personal fitness programs, ski schools around the nation have been dumping traditional group lessons, often too large and always geared toward the slowest skier, and replacing them with customized, tightly focused clinics.

There's something for everybody: confidence-building for Never-Evers (beginners), teenagers' ski camp, snowboarding seminars, bumps and carving clinics, women's ski weeks, off-piste (ungroomed snow) tours, back-country orienteering and survival courses and customized ski-alongs with former pros and Olympians.

For the average downhiller, the prospect of keeping up with someone like Weber, who skied at 138 miles-per-hour and lived to be interviewed, is daunting. What if you can't handle the pace? What if he loses patience and ditches you on some black diamond death trap?

But Weber is a teddy bear, a good listener, coaxing and kidding, modest about his expertise and generous with smiles and words like "terrific," and "video-perfect." Most skiers, he says, can ski better than they think they can.

"Fear is what paralyzes people," he says, leading us toward the ridge on Granite Chief at Squaw Valley. "Get past the fear and you can do anything. Try this run. It's the easy way down, one of my favorites. You'll like it."

Sunshine, a recent snowfall and long-distance views are perfect skiing conditions

The group, utterly trusting, follows him like lambs. Five minutes later they've made it to the bottom, bewildered and panting, but happy. "That was a black diamond run," he admits, grinning sheepishly. "It's your level, definitely."

Weber's is just one of many ski seminars. The following ski programs, all at American ski areas, are some of the best.

Aspen Highlands, Aspen, Colorado

Aspen Highlands, famous for steep, high-altitude terrain, is a natural for adventure skiing. "We've got thousands of acres outside the ski boundary but inside our permit area," says Rich Burkley, director of skiing for the Aspen Ski Company, owner of Snowmass, Aspen, Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk. "The slopes aren't necessarily extreme, or even dangerous. But you need an experienced instructor to show you where to go."

Off-Piste Tours ($99 per person), for advanced intermediates and expert skiers, head to the back country for a sweat-pumping day in crust, crud and deep powder. Adventure Ski Camp ($995 for five days), for experts only, teaches ski-mountaineering on out-of-bounds terrain, usually without chairlifts.

Cruising down Spar Gulch's curving slopes at Aspen, Colorado

Mountain Explorers is Aspen Highland's newest course, taught in three- and four-day segments. Open to low-intermediate to expert skiers, the classes stay with the same instructor throughout for more consistent learning and better group dynamics. The three-day weekend course is $239; the four-day mid-week course is $299.

Too Cool For School clinics, for teens ages 13 to 19, pair an energetic young instructor with the same core group of kids for lessons, fun, races and evening events. Three days is $174; five days is $269.

Mt. Snow, Vermont

At the new, expanded Mt. Snow, where new owner, American Skiing Company, has invested $35 million over the past five years, the old ski school methods are history, replaced by the Perfect Turn method, designed to make skiing what it should have been all along -- fun.

"Instructors used to make you ski for them, then tell you how bad you were," says Milissa Gullotti, resort spokesperson. "But Perfect Turn takes what you've already got and builds on it." Students are videotaped skiing, she says, then view the video to see what they're doing. "Most people don't have any idea how they ski, or what to do to improve," says Gullotti. "But when they see themselves, they get it immediately."

Beginners (Level 1) start with a four-hour Learn to Ski and Ride clinic at the Perfect Turn Discovery Center, where instructors lead them through a video, equipment rentals, mountain safety and a lesson; the all-inclusive price is $70. Level 2 and 3 clinics ($75 each for two hours) include full-mountain lift tickets with lesson and rentals. Or buy all three clinics for $160. If you want to buy skis or equipment later at Chris Ports Ski Shop, you can apply that amount to the price.

For better skiers, lessons and clinics go all over Mt. Snow's 770 skiable acres, spread over five mountain faces. For Levels 4 to 8, two-hour clinics are $33 per person but don't include lift ticket or rentals. And you can choose customized small-group specialty clinics, two hours each and scheduled as requested, focusing on snowboarding, halfpipe for boarders, carving turns, skiing the bumps, carving turns, boarding in a park, race techniques and telemarking. The two-hour Family Clinic ($145) for up to five skiers teaches parents how to teach their kids to ski.

Heavenly, Lake Tahoe, California

Skiers stop to admire a top-of-the-mountain view

It's business as usual at Heavenly Ski Resort, also owned by the American Skiing Company, on the south shore of Lake Tahoe. With 4,800 skiable acres, panoramic lake views and plenty of broad intermediate trails, the resort is probably California's best-known ski area. But since the resort changed owners in August 1996, Perfect Turn teaching clinics have replaced traditional ski school techniques.

"It used to be the old snake line, follow me and do what I do," says Monica Bandows, communications director. "But you won't see long lines of people standing around or waiting to come down the hill," she says. "Classes are organized into small groups with a coach, and the process is more free-form. The coach tries to hone your current ski skills instead of re-making your style."

Perfect Turn clinics go beyond mere technical mastery of carving and pole-planting, says Bandows. More important is getting a feel for the sport itself, with snow safety rules, etiquette, ski clothing, proper boot fit, and type and size of ski.

Never-Evers (Level 1) start with Learn to Ski and Ride, two-hour clinics; $79 includes ski rentals. By Level 3, skiers move on to the Green Trail Cruiser clinics at $116 for a 2 3/4 hours lesson plus lift ticket.

The Mountain Adventure program for Levels 4 and up groups together up to six skiers of similar abilities and goals for 2 3/4 hours of coaching. Prices without lift tickets are $49 for one day, $125 for three days, $155 for four days and $185 for five days.

Carver's Paradise hits the slopes at 8 a.m. for 90 minutes of coaching on freshly groomed snow ($28) for intermediates and up. Custom clinics include one-day Women's Workshop ($35) with coaching keyed to female physiques for groups of up to five skiers of similar skill levels; and Top Gun on Gunbarrel Moguls, a two-hour afternoon bumps workout for aggressive skiers led by local mogul masters ($39). Call for specific dates.

Heavenly also offers free two-hour mountain tours led by former ski instructors. The tours meet daily at 9:45 a.m. at the base of Patsy's Chairlift above the top of the Aerial Tram. Ski With a Ranger, a two-hour tour led by U.S. Forest Service Rangers, focuses on the geology, ecosystems and wildlife of the Tahoe Basin, starting daily at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. from the top of the Aerial Tram.

Olympic rings recall the 1960 winter games in Squaw Valley, California

Kids Ski School combines lessons, ski rentals, snow play and child care, depending on the child's age. Full days are $116 with lunch and snacks; half days are $76. Baby care for ages 6 weeks and up is available.

Squaw Valley Ski Resort, Tahoe City, California

Despite its reputation for challenging terrain (mostly on lower faces), Squaw's 4,000 skiable acres on the northwest shore of Lake Tahoe include many spectacular beginner and intermediate runs on the upper slopes. Don't stay down below. Instead, take the cable car to High Camp for breathtaking summit views, on-mountain dining, broad bunny runs, a swimming pool (open in summer), tubing park and comfortable lounges.

 • Mt. Snow, Vermont: Four hours' north of New York City by car. John F. Kennedy and La Guardia are the closest airports.

 • Aspen Ski Resorts, Colorado: In central Colorado, west of Denver. Fly directly to Aspen, or fly to Denver and connect to Aspen.

 • Squaw Valley USA, California: Squaw Valley is in central California, a 45-minute drive west of Reno and 200 miles east of San Francisco. Fly to either city and drive.

 • Heavenly Resort: Heavenly is in central California at south Lake Tahoe, a 45-minute drive west of Reno and 240 miles east of San Francisco. Fly to either city and drive.

(c) 2000, Anne Z. Cooke. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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October 10, 2000
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Resort at Squaw Creek
Aspen
American Skiing Company
Heavenly Lake Tahoe

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