Men's collections usher in new fashion season

Valentino

January 13, 2001
Web posted at: 12:49 p.m. EST (1749 GMT)

Translated from Italian for CNN.com/Arts & Style

MILAN, Italy (CNN) -- Designers are stepping into the spotlight once again in Milan, as the city kicks off the fashion season Sunday with men's ready-to-wear collections for fall/winter 2001.

The shows end in Milan on Thursday, before shifting to Paris, where they run until the 29th.

The remaining shows, through mid-March, are devoted to women: spring/summer couture and fall/winter ready-to-wear.

The fashion industry is big business in Milan, where 51 fashion shows and 32 exhibitions are scheduled this week.

Almost all the big fashion names are taking part -- from Britain's Burberry and Vivienne Westwood to Germany's Jil Sander, who is showing her first men's collection since Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli snapped her up in 1999. Also on tap are Japan's Miyake, the young Canadian twins Dsquared and U.S. fashion heavyweight Calvin Klein.

Although the men's clothing market is growing, it never attracts as much attention as women's fashions. Because of this, designers make sure their collections are shown wherever the buyers are gathering.

Gucci's Tom Ford

Milan is not a place for crazy, young designers or temperamental artists. In its stylish milieu, understated designs alla Armani fit perfectly, as does the luxury rocker style of Cavalli, the irony of Dolce & Gabbana, Versace's aggressive style and Tom Ford's glamour.

At Sunday's Men's National Costumes Show the major designers are lined up, one after another: Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu and Donatella Versace. Versace also is hosting an "after-hours" event for buyers and the media.

On Monday, Valentino returns to the catwalk after last year's Hollywood-style celebrations marking his 40 years in the fashion business. But there may be more anticipation for Jil Sander's first men's collection since Prada Group's acquisition of her fashion house, especially given the lukewarn reception she received for her latest women's collection.

Donatella Versace

Gucci steps out on Tuesday, amid rumors that designer Tom Ford will be taking over as artistic director for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. That's in the wake of Del Sole's coup in grabbing the talented Alexander McQueen.

The next day, Prada will take center stage, while Thursday will be monopolized by Armani's three shows at its downtown Milan headquarters.

As always happens, the fashion houses haven't selected the "Fiera di Milano" as a venue for their men's shows, reserving it for their women's collections.

Giorgio Armani

Many of the fashion houses are staging their shows at their Milan headquarters. Another popular choice: post-industrial buildings on the city's outskirts.

Whatever the location, the new fashion season promises to be defined by luxury and elegance, reflecting a mix of top-flight tailoring, high-quality fabrics and lots of accessories.

Soon we'll see what original styles the prophets of good taste are proposing for the men of the new millennium.

Translation from Italian to English provided by Daniela Berretta of CNN.com/Italia and Martha Graham.

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