Travel Bug: Montreal

Say 'oui' to the Canadian city with the French accent

A view of downtown Montreal from Mont-Royal

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by Rob Lenihan
CNNfn Staff Writer

NEW YORK (CNNfn) - They speak French, enjoy a jumping nightlife, and offer a city full of fabulous attractions. If you're an American thinking 'Paris,' you're focused in the wrong direction. Don't look due east; look north -- to Montreal.

The first Europeans who settled this island city in the 1600's would doubtless have a hard time recognizing Montreal today. While retaining much of its Old World charm, Montreal is a thoroughly modern metropolis with things to do, places to see, and, goodness knows, plenty of spots where you can eat.

There are many festivals throughout the course of the year, and getting around town is easy thanks to the city's subway and bus lines. Baby boomers may remember that in 1969 John Lennon and Yoko Ono held their so-called "bed-in" at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel in downtown Montreal and wrote the song "Give Peace a Chance."

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Montreal is the second-largest French-speaking city in the world after Paris. And yet, for all the European charm and atmosphere, it's just a short hop for many North American residents. The city is an 80-minute plane ride from New York City, 100 minutes from Washington D.C., and about two hours and 25 minutes away from Chicago. Jet lag? Not a chance.

Montreal came into being when French settlers landed on the island in 1642 with the goal of starting a new Christian society.

Old World rivalries cropped up in the New World, however, and in 1759 British troops took nearby Quebec City. Montreal fell a short time later and English and Scottish settlers moved into the city, adding to the cultural mix and expanding Montreal's economic base.

Travel experts say a visit to Montreal should start with the 764-foot-high Mont-Royal, which gave the island its name. The Notre Dame Basilica is a 3,800-seat neo-Gothic church that opened in 1829, although the first church to bear its name goes back to the city's first settlers. The church's twin towers are 228 feet high and services are held beneath a vaulted blue ceiling with thousands of 24-karat stars.

"It's the oldest church in the city," said Paul Waters, who, along with his wife, Julie, put together the Montreal chapter for the Fodor's guidebook to the area. "It's pretty overwhelming."

The Musee d'Archeologie Pointe-a-Calliere was built around the excavated remains of structures going back to Montreal's first days, including the city's first Catholic Museum. The museum is described as a web of stone walls and tunnels lit up by spotlights and holograms from the past.

Waters said the city's biggest attraction in terms of attendance is the Casino de Montreal, located on the Ile Notre-Dame in the St. Lawrence River. The island was the site of the Expo '67 world's fare and the casino was built from the French and Quebec pavilions.

Christ Church Cathedral and Place de la Cathedrale building

During the 17th century, France used Montreal and nearby Quebec City as trading posts and strategic military locations.

The military concerns have lessened somewhat over the passage of time, but the trading -- read "shopping" -- is going on full blast. Downtown Montreal is the largest commercial center in Canada, with more than 3000 businesses, according to Tourisme Montreal, the city's tourism bureau. Nearly 1,200 stores line Sainte-Catherine Street between Guy and Saint-Denis streets, which is the highest concentration of stores in Canada and the country's largest collection of fashion boutiques and ready-to-wear shops.

A good piece of the downtown shopping area is really down, as in underground. The Underground City began in 1966 when the subway, or Metro, opened. Here you will find hotels, movie theaters, a skating rink, a church, an art museum, boutiques and plenty of other places to spend your money. All of this is linked by Metro lines and more than 19 miles of passages that provide protection from the cold and the heat.

"You could come to the city in the winter time and never wear a coat," Waters said.

You may want to leave your driver's license home, too. The transit system is so effective that you could probably skip renting a car, unless you want to see places outside of town, like Quebec City, which is about 2-1/2 to 3 hours away. If you do rent a car, remember you'll have to deal with the accompanying parking and traffic headaches.

In any case, by this time you should have quite an appetite and that's a good thing. Montreal is a great place to be hungry because you won't be that way for long. In addition to French cuisine, you'll find restaurants representing more than 75 ethnic groups.

"This is one of the best eating cities," Waters said. "Dining out is a religion and chefs are celebrities."

English and French are Canada's two official languages, and while Montreal is a tolerant place, experts advise visitors to learn a few French phrases just to get around.

Your U.S. greenbacks will get better mileage in Canada, with one American dollar converting to about $1.50 Canadian. While violent crime is more common in urban areas, the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Consular Affairs report on Canada said "violent crimes, such as murder, armed robbery, and rape are infrequent throughout the country."

Be aware that drunken driving is a serious offense in Canada. The penalties are heavy, the report said, and any prior conviction, no matter how long ago or how minor, is grounds for exclusion from Canada.

Like any major city, Montreal offers a variety of lodging, from the major hotel chains to country inns. The Web site BBSelect.com is one site that lists country inns located in Montreal. World Wide Vacations in Las Vegas lists a three-night hotel package at the Queen Elizabeth from $163, airfare not included. Packages for the Casino start at $89 per person double occupancy for two nights.

If you're planning a trip to Montreal, you're sure to find all sorts of happenings all year round, including the world famous jazz festival in the summer. The city plays host to more than 40 festivals and international events.

Waters said fall is probably the best time of the year to visit the city when the temperatures and the crowds are a little more manageable. But you can also come up during the winter. Just be prepared.

"You have to be fairly hardy," he said. "We are a winter people."

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