Travel Bug: Greece
Have an epic time in the land of the gods
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The Parthenon
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by Rob Lenihan CNNfn staff Writer
NEW YORK (CNNfn) - Odysseus couldn't stay away from Greece, so why should you?
The famed hero of the Trojan War went through all manner of grief in his struggle to return to this southern European country. You can go there today without having to duke it out with the Cyclops.
The scenery, the sites, both ancient and modern, and the people are all waiting to be discovered yet again by intrepid travelers.
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This is the land of Zeus, Hercules, Apollo and scores of other mythic figures. Some of the greatest works of theater, poetry and art come from Greece. This is both the birthplace of democracy-meaning "control by the people" and the Olympic Games, which are returning to Greece in 2004.
But it isn't all about antiquity. Greece is a modern country with beautiful beaches for swimming and sunbathing, lush countryside for hiking and fine slopes for skiing. There are islands where you can get lost and hot spots where you can party to heroic extremes.
"I have a real passion for the country," said Samantha Stenzel, a contributor to the Fodor's guide to Greece. "The historic monuments are very impressive and, outside of Athens, you'll find breathtaking scenery."
Arrival in Athens
Your trip to Greece will most likely kick off in Athens, the capital city. Home to about 4 million people, Athens can be a bit of challenge, with its noise, traffic and clouds of pollution.
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The Palace of Knossos
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Some people suggest you hit the major sites here and then split for the countryside as soon as you can, but Stenzel, who owns the tour company Mediterranean Odysseys in Chicago, said you can find pockets of beauty and charm amid all the din.
Start the day by visiting the Acropolis, the high point of the ancient city, a must-see for a Greek vacation. Here you'll find monuments dating from the Classical Period-roughly 450-330 B.C.-such as the Erechtheion and the Parthenon, described as the most architecturally sophisticated temple of its time.
Experts say you should wear a hat for protection from the sun and low-heel, rubber-sole shoes as the marble on the Acropolis steps and near the other monuments is slippery. The Acropolis Museum is located in the southeast corner of the site.
You'll find the historic Plaka district on the northern side of the slope and the Anafiotika section, where simple stone houses stand in contrast to the city's non-stop action.
"It's lovely," Stenzel said. "You're a world apart from the hustle and the bustle."
The Agora is the site of the earliest settlements and the focal point of community life in ancient Athens. The site is dominated by the best preserved Doric temple in Greece, the Hephaistion.
Visitors to Athens will also want to take in the National Archaeological Museum. It is considered the city's most important museum and it contains artistic highlights from every period of ancient Greek civilization.
Round and about
Now you're ready to leave the city. Delphi has some of the most impressive sites outside of Athens, including the Sanctuary of Athena and the Temple of Apollo, the god of music.
In the Peloponnese, you'll find the royal town of Mycenae, where the lines between legend and history are easily blurred. Ancient Olympia is one of the most popular sites in Greece. Experts say travelers should set aside at least two hours to see the ruins and the museum-more if you can spare it.
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The Acropolis
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Greece is also known for its varied islands and you'll have plenty to choose from. Mykonos is described as the most expensive and most visited of all the Greek islands and, according to Lonely Planet, the undisputed gay capital of Greece.
Crete, the center of Minoan civilization, is the largest island and is host to a quarter of all visitors coming to Greece. The palace of Knossos is just outside Heraklion, Crete's largest city, and experts say it is the most magnificent of Crete's Minoan sites.
The Ionian Islands consist of 7 main islands, including Paxoi, Kythria, and Corfu, said to be the most beautiful of all the Greek islands. On the other hand, Santorini, one of the Cycladic islands, is regarded as Greece's most spectacular island. It does get very crowded, however, and Stenzel recommended making hotel reservations in advance during tourist season.
Wherever you go, Stenzel said one of the most memorable experiences you'll have will be the Greek people themselves.
"They're very warm," she said. "They're extremely out-going and they like to have a good time."
Need to Know
While civil disorder is rare in Greece, the U.S. State Department's Bureau of Consular Affairs said several terrorist groups, including the "17 November" organization have targeted U.S. and other western government and commercial interests. Terrorists bombed a major hotel chain perceived to have American ties in 1999, the report said, and, last June, the British Defense Attach was murdered in a terrorist attack.
There were two maritime disasters in September 2000, the bureau said, revealing weaknesses in safety procedures on ferryboats and privately chartered vessels. Ferryboats operating between Greek ports have started to improve safety procedures and passengers chartering private vessels should review safety practices and equipment with the crew.
Purse-snatching, pick-pocketing and other crimes against tourists appear to be increasing at popular tourist spots and on crowded public transportation, particularly in Athens. Also, be prepared to drive defensively, the bureau said, as heavy traffic and poor highways can spell trouble, especially at night.
"I don't recommend driving in Athens," Stenzel said. "It's too stressful. Taxies are so inexpensive and you can get them any time day or night."
And be careful crossing the streets in Athens. The street lights change very quickly and you have to be light on your feet to avoid oncoming vehicles.
Gia sas!
Travel experts say Greece is not the good buy it used to be, but visitors can still enjoy good prices there. The U.S. dollar will convert to about 359.35 Drachma, which, incidentally, is being retired to make room for the euro.
Lonely Planet reckons a budget meal goes for about $4 to $8 and a top end meal can cost between $20 and $50. Budget double rooms cost between $30 and $50, mid-range cost between $50 and $90 and a top-end room will set you back between $90 and $200.
Spring and fall are the best times to visit Greece, experts say, since the weather is more agreeable and the various sites are not very crowded.
And one last word of advice. While it is always a good idea to plan your vacations, Stenzel said you should ease up a little in Greece.
"People should relax and try not to be a slave to the checklist," she said. "It's great to see what surprises lie around the corner."
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