Paris neighborhood thrives on mix of old and new

An artist captures the picturesque Place des Vosges in Paris' Marais district

March 1, 2001
Web posted at: 6:10 p.m. EST (2310 GMT)

In this story: Perfect showcase Picasso and more RELATED STORIES, SITES

From Stephanie Oswald
CNN Travel Now Correspondent

PARIS, France (CNN) -- In the early 17th century, Henry IV turned some French swampland into an aristocratic residence at picturesque Place des Vosges.

Today it's the cornerstone of the Marais, one of the liveliest quarters in Paris. Located in the Right Bank area just north of Ile Saint Louis, it's a proudly authentic Parisian neighborhood where old and new live in harmony.

GALLERY Click for images of the Marais   ON THE SCENE CNN's Stephanie Oswald suggests the top 10 souvenirs to bring home from Paris     BOOK EXCERPT Take a walking tour of the Marais with author Thirza Vallois     RECIPES Try your hand at making French cuisine at home     RELATED STORY French cafes sip slowly in fast-gulp culture     MESSAGE BOARD Where in the world do you want to travel?

Place des Vosges once was home to writer Victor Hugo. His residence, filled with antiquities, is now open to the public. Then around the corner, you'll find modern art galleries and designer boutiques.

And there's much more to see.

Perfect showcase

A walk through the Marais may be the perfect showcase of Parisian tradition, trends and tolerance. One moment you find yourself in the midst of an established Jewish community. A few minutes later, you can measure the pulse of the city's gay culture.

"It's quite extraordinary today to see in the same street -- because the two communities are literally intertwined," said author and francophile Thirza Vallois. "It just creates extra dimension."

Quite the opposite of quaint Place des Vosges is a considerably newer landmark, the colorful Centre Pompidou, built in 1977.

Curious visitors who head inside will find artistic treasure in the National Museum of Modern Art, which reopened last year after major renovations.

One of the greatest visual treats is the view of Paris during an escalator ride to the top of the building.

Picasso and more

Other museums in the area include the Picasso Museum, which has one of the largest collections in the world of the famed artist's works, and the Museum Carnavalet, which is devoted to the history of Paris.

The Marais is just one example of the pleasures awaiting travelers who venture beyond Paris' traditional tourist haunts.

"What I personally find most special about Paris are the hidden nooks and crannies that you only discover little by little," Vallois said. "It's a permanent adventure. I keep discovering and discovering as I go along."

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The Marais

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