Mule's a jewel in Hawaiian back country

Mule rides are a good way to cover ground on the Big Island

From Gail O'Neill
CNN Travel Now

KAILUA-KONA, Hawaii (CNN) -- Hawaii may be best known for its beaches, but it has plenty of other wonders to explore when you're ready to ease your feet out of the sand.

There's no better way to see parts of Hawaii's Big Island, for example, than on mule back.

Because mules are sturdy and sure-footed, they helped open up the treacherous back country of the Big Island, the southernmost and youngest of Hawaii's chain of islands.

"So now people get to get on these mules and do something that's been going on up here for over a hundred years," says Rob Pacheco of Hawaii Forest and Trails, which offers mule tours through the region.

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One of the tours takes mule riders up the slopes of Kohala volcano, affording panoramic views of surrounding mountains, waterfalls and coastline. They also ride through part of the historic Kohala Ditch Trail, stopping among the guava trees.

Along the way, Wally Ching of Hawaii Forest and Trail offers some insight into the region's past.

"This was all farmland for the Hawaiians when they lived here," he says. "Then in the 1900s the sugar plantation came in. They planted all this with cane as far as you can see -- all the way through the forest was all cane fields, and now they use it for raising cattle."

Gone fishing

Not all Big Island fun happens on land. Fishing's a popular diversion, too.

"Kona is the Pacific blue marlin capital of the world," says Capt. Brian Wargo of Bite Me Sportfishing. "There's been 58 marlin here caught over a thousand pounds. So there's some monster fish, and in this business this is the Mecca of it all."

A fisherman pulls in a 40-pound short-nose spearfish

While out on the water, it doesn't take long for the first sighting, or rather, splashing, of a humpback whale. Fortunately, fishing lures aren't enticing to whales, and dolphins won't bite, either.

"Basically, the keyword in fishing is tight line," says Jeremiah Taylor, also of Bite Me Sportfishing. "It's not a race. It's not a sumo match. It's a chess game.

"You don't have to be a real strong person to catch a big fish," he says. "Just pace yourself and take your time. Big giant fish are gonna come in when they're ready."