Best foot forward

A model walks the runway of Kenneth Cole's Fall 2002 fashion show.

(CNN) -- When it comes to men's fashion, styles tend to be more evolutionary than revolutionary. That's especially true when it comes to shoes.

For example: check out any old black and white film. While the clothes, the cars and certainly the manners are a dead giveaway of a certain time and place in history -- only the most astute observer of style could look at the leading man's shoes and tell you their vintage.

As it stands, there are basically three shapes out there for guys: round, pointy and square. Each look gets its 15 minutes of fame in 2-year cycles.

The reasons for this are two-fold. First, men are not usually big shoppers. On the contrary, most guys see shopping as a necessary evil. They're willing to do only what it takes to get in and out of a store as quickly as possible.

Second, unlike their female counterparts (brace yourselves, ladies) men are infinitely more faithful creatures when it comes to consumerism.

"They know exactly what they are looking for," says Jean-Michel Cazabat, who designs shoes for women. "They can walk into a shop and buy the same shoe for 20 years and never even notice what else is out there."

Gregg Andrews, a fashion director at Nordstrom, agrees: "We've noticed that our U.S. customers appreciate comfort, quality and versatility. When they find that in a shoe they tend to keep coming back to it... or buy in several colors."

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Then again, there are those who wouldn't dream of leaving the house looking less than up-to-the-minute. And for guys like that: pointy toes are de rigueur.

As Andrews states: "For business and dress, men's footwear is taking on a more sleek look. We are seeing a slim, more narrow toe shape. While very fashion-forward shoes are almost pointed."

Still, most American men want to look updated, not trendy. They've resisted the designer dictate to go pointy -- and in the process, have made it hip to be square.

"I believe the masses are resisting because of their attachment to the comfort and appearance of slightly squarer shapes" observes Ron Donovan. The custom shoe designer (who wears a size 15 and-a-half) has also learned, from experience, that square toes are "a great way to diminish the apparent size of larger feet."

Americans have always valued comfort. In fact, our affinity for gym shoes (whether or not we work out) has been our hallmark around the world for decades. When it comes to elegant dressing the French, Italians and English have always had the undisputed advantage: and we never minded following their lead.

But as Europeans started embracing casual comfort, and Americans warmed to the joys of more formal dressing -- a wonderful hybrid was born: the city sneaker.

The Italian company Prada was the first to innovate the design which bridges style and comfort. Constructed like a shoe, but made with athletic-inspired materials... the trend was an immediate hit that's still going strong.

Timberland and Puma quickly stepped up with signature looks of their own, but the line that has really taken off in the United States and in Europe is called Camper.

"The concept is based on 'retro' sports shoes like the ones our grandparents used to wear," explains Dalia Saliamonas, publicity director at Camper.

Nicole Kidman couples hers with skirts. And Giorgio Armani has worn his with suits, effectively jump-starting a trend among bankers in Milan and Rome who now pair theirs with pinstriped suits.

The look has also caught on in the United States, primarily among men in creative sectors like advertising, fashion and entertainment. But that's where it ends -- because corporate America is the last bastion of conservative dress.

By the same token, there are alternatives for men who want to push the envelope without going over the top.

Scott Fradin suggests playing with texture. "An alligator shoe is a very luxurious item that works beautifully with a traditional suit," says the vice president at Neiman Marcus. "Or, try a rubber soled shoe for a more sporty feel."

Custom-made boot from Ron Donovan Bespoke Collection, Spring/Summer 2002

Gucci has several styles to choose from, and Cole Haan recently partnered with Nike to develop a shoe that's office-friendly on top -- and foot-friendly on the bottom. The soles feature the same technology used to develop running shoes.

According to Donovan: "Boots are an excellent way of updating a traditional look." The couturier wears boots almost every day himself, while advising his executive clients to couple lighter shades of brown with a classic black or navy pinstriped suit.

The aesthetic is a holdover from his days as an apprentice to Italian shoemakers.

But if you do go with a boot, keep it simple. Donovan stresses that the look should not be "too rugged or outdoors-related". Ideally, your boot should have the sleek/ slim line of a shoe, be void of detail and no higher than the ankle.

Unless, of course, you go with the cowboy boot. Sure, you may provoke snide comments like "He's all hat and no cattle". But if you wear them like a real cowboy-- no one would dare to say it to your face!

(Trends that have come and gone)

Remember the days when a salesman could talk you into buying a pair of shoes that were obviously too small?

Well, Scott Fradin at Neiman Marcus says that the shoe stretcher will be going the way of the rack. "If the shoe is not comfy and does not fit from the start, do not buy it. Shoes were not made to be stretched."

Donovan agrees:"The biggest mistake men make when buying new shoes is accepting an improper fit. Most footwear will require some breaking in ... however, one's feet should not be the things broken in the process."

Donovan custom designs shoes for men from his atelier in Manhattan. Earl Robinson is a devoted client.

"Owning a pair of custom-made shoes is akin to owning a Rolls Royce" says Robinson. "I work in the finance industry (which is very orthodox in terms its dress code), but it's a fun thing when a banker can show some kind of creativity. When you go 'custom' you get to create a shoe that speaks to who you are."

Custom-made boot from Ron Donovan Bespoke Collection, Spring/Summer 2002

The average price for a pair of Ron Donovan shoes is $1,200 for men.

"Reasonable," by Robinson's standards, "considering that the price point is not that much higher than an upper end pair of (hand made) Ferragamos and Guccis."

Maintaining your footwear is crucial; it's just like good grooming. Without the proper care it can ruin your entire look.

Whether you fork over $120 or $1200 for a new pair of shoes -- why not do what you can to make them last?

Pointed oxfords from Dolce & Gabbana

Gregg Andrews of Nordstrom offers the following guidelines:

What's the point of investing in a pair of sandals or thongs (like the ones pictured here, from Stephane Kelian) if your feet look like a caveman's?

Face it, gentleman. Toenails that can do double duty as sling blades (and other foot foibles) are not chic!

Leather thong from Stephane Kelian Spring/Summer 2002 collection

Lia Schorr of Lia Schorr Skin Care in Manhattan caters to a largely male clientele, but even she admits that "most men associate pampering with being a girl's domain, which is why they stay away".

"But," Schorr promises such men: "If you just try a pedicure once, you will feel totally different in sandals. You'll feel well groomed. And well-groomed feet are very sexy."