Chest-puffing border ritual a show-stealer

The higher the kick, the happier the crowd

WAGAH, India -- There are flag-waving spectators, loud chants and officials blowing whistles to keep order. A football match? A show by a chart-topping bhangra band?

No, it's the flag-lowering ceremony at India and Pakistan's only border crossing.

Each night at sunset thousands of people gather in specially-built grandstands -- bright saris and turbans on one side, muted salwar chemeez and skullcaps on the other -- to cheer on their sides in a high-stepping, chest-puffing ritual.

Months of tension between South Asia's nuclear neighbors, with hundreds of thousands of troops facing off across the boundary, lend events a more ominous undertone.

The 30-kilometer drive from Punjab state capital Amritsar to the crossing certainly holds some pointed reminders of the military build-up following December's attack on parliament, which the government says was Pakistan-backed.

Not that the area is any stranger to inter-communal violence, being the scene of some of the most gruesome Partition massacres as millions of people moved between the newly divided countries more than 50 years ago.

Carnival atmosphere

'Long live India' chants are met with equal force from the Pakistani side of the fence

Now watchtowers, army encampments and tanks draped with camouflage -- and assorted laundry -- dot the brilliant green of the Sikh heartland. That is except for the last few fields where crops have been razed to make way for freshly-planted landmines marked by red danger signs.

While a summer of international headlines proclaiming nuclear conflagration has passed, simmering tensions and travel restrictions mean few people head to the Wagah crossing anymore -- despite all other bus, train and air links being severed.

"One, two a day," shrugs a struggling café owner at the border. "There used to be thousands. It is bad, bad business." He does not even bother to set out his chairs and tables until the late afternoon.

Then, in the hours preceding the drill, the deserted car-park assumes an almost carnival atmosphere with popcorn and cola vendors and young boys waving "only 10 rupee" souvenir photographs.

Having grabbed their snacks amid the "warm-up" blare of competing jingoistic pop, people settle into their seats, either general or VIP, in status-conscious India's large concrete stands. On the Pakistani side the flag-waving crowd sits below ornate yellow turrets, divided by sex.

Gaurev, a young small-businessman from Delhi is visiting the Punjab with his family. " I love my country," he says simply when asked what drew him to the border ceremony for the first time.

Does he think there will be war? "No, no, no," he says hastily turning to join a hearty chant of "Long live India." The cries are met with equal force from the Pakistani side of the fence. Every so often guards restore order with whistle blasts.

High-kick

The end of the ceremony

Finally, a small contingent of Indian Border Security Forces, resplendent in khaki uniforms, peacock-like red and gold-fanned turbans and well-waxed moustaches step out to an approving roar.

In stereo, to cheers from their crowd, Pakistani Rangers in black and similarly fan-topped are led through a drill matching high-kick for high-kick. The height of the kick and the noise of the defiant stamp that follows, are particular crowd pleasers.

A bugle sounds and almost in unison the flags are lowered diagonally on poles just meters apart. The resolute slamming of India's tri-co lour and Pakistan's crescent and star-adorned gates quickly follows.

"Show over" the crowds swarm forward and the soldiers pose for photograph after photograph.

Rimpy, a housewife also visiting from the capital, has loved the display but says she is looking to the leaders of India and Pakistan to sort out the simmering tension. "I hope the people there [Pakistan] think the same thing. The general people don't have any problem against each other."

Indeed a Pakistani family just across the barrier smile and wave. But apparently that's not allowed and a whistle sounds.